Habitat improvement on small tracts of
land
Submitted By: Pete Gamet ©2004 on 6/26/2004
There has been a great deal of information floating around the Internet over
the past few years. It seems that every Seed Company, national organization,
state universities, or state agency has done a study or wrote about habitat
improvement and food plots. What this article is about is what I have done on my
own property.
First of all, let me explain what wildlife need and what I have to work with.
The rest will discuss the steps I have taken to improve my property. The small
land tract within most states is roughly between 10 and 20 acres, at least here
in Michigan. This article will mostly deal with ways to improve small parcels of
land no bigger than 20 acres.
Wildlife need three things in order to survive; food, cover and water. I have
plenty of water on my property, so I won't be discussing that too much. If you
don't have a water supply on your property, a small pond is an option. Most
woodlots do have places where the rains are collected and held for short periods
of time. Cover is something that the wildlife need also. It may be just some
brush piles, tall grass or anything else that may provide cover. Food is the most
important. If you do not have a good food source the wildlife will move to find
it. I will be covering the latter two.
I own roughly 16 acres of land, of which 3 acres is my yard, house and other
buildings. Another 3 acres are set aside as grassland, this area is left alone
for the most part because the pheasants rely on the cover and nest in there. The
rest of the property is brush, woodlot and a little wet most of the year. The
area I wanted to improve was in the back portion of the property. The area
consisted of different species of maple, ash, elm, dogwood, basswood, common
apple and some black walnut. For the most part the timber is at different stages
of growth through out the woodlot. For most of the year has standing water
pockets in certain areas. This was my dilemma, how do I improve
this? Getting started
Before I started doing anything, I did some research and did more research. I
spent countless hours online going from site to site just gathering information.
When I felt I had gathered enough information to be knowledgeable. I started
asking myself what I wanted to accomplish. What animals did I want this to
benefit? What plants and trees did I want to keep? What trees should be cut?
Where, if any, did I want to put in food plots? These questions I had to answer
these questions for myself before I could get started.
The first thing to do before doing any type of work is walk the property to
get a feel of what you have to work with. Once you feel you know enough of your
property. Sit down and draw a map of the property. This doesn't have to be
precise or drawn to scale, just as long you can read it and understand it. The
key features of the map should include the following; terrain features, types of
vegetation, waterways and the boundary. Use symbols and have a guide on the map
to explain what the symbol is. Make several copies of your map. This will be your
guide for the duration of the project.
With your map drawn and you have made several copies, start planning. It is
easier to correct mistakes on paper than after you cut or clear an area. Always
keep one map as the before map. This will be for reference. With the other maps,
label them as you want. There is not a definite number that you have to have. For
myself I used this; the before map, areas I didn't want to change, wet areas,
tree and shrub locations, existing structures, shooting lanes and what I wanted
to improve. You get the idea. The planning stage
After you have your map drawn out and have an idea of what you would like to
accomplish. Do some sort of planning and start the decision process. Ask yourself
what wildlife do you want to attract and keep on the property? This can be a very
lengthy list depending on what species live in your area. You can set aside
different areas for different animals. I broke it down into two areas: one area
for upland birds and the other for the woodland creatures.
The wildlife that I wanted to attract were deer, turkey, rabbit, squirrel,
grouse, pheasant and quail. I tried to plan accordingly for each animal or groups
of animals. I came up with different tree and shrub species to promote cover and
a food source later on. I also decided to plant food plots in certain areas till
the trees and shrubs become productive.
When you have an idea of what you want to attract, choose the right trees,
shrubs and plants for your geographic location. Not all trees, shrubs and plants
will grow in certain soil conditions and locations. Things to remember are
sunlight, soil type, and moisture content. These can be broken down even farther;
for sunlight: full sun, partial sun and shade, for soil type: clay, sand and
loam, for moisture content: wet, moist and dry. Some forms of plant life will do
well in a broad range of conditions and others may not. You need to read what the
recommendations are from the supplier before purchasing anything. Another thing
to remember is that certain plants attract different species and make your
choices accordingly.
If you run into problems and are not sure if this is the right way to go,
check with your local biologist. I did, they are there to help with this sort of
thing. I called my local biologist and he in turn after coming out and looking at
my property referred me to federal forester that he knew. Before the forester
came out, I had all ready had an idea of what I wanted to accomplish with this
project. I did this for reassurance purposes. I wanted to double check what I had
planned was keeping with the natural vegetation. I also wanted to check the soil
composition for my area. The state and federal agencies should have the soil
information for your area. Plus it doesn't hurt to have a professional back up
your information and give some advice on the subject. Clearing the
area
This is by far the most labor intensive. This deals with cutting trees and
clearing areas that you want to improve. This is also a very time consuming
process, especially if you are doing the work yourself. You can however contact a
lumber company to do some logging if that is what you want to do. Myself, I
decided to just do it myself, for I needed the exercise.
Now that you are ready to start cutting, here is a list of tools that you will
need; a chain saw, brush cutter, limb pruner, a shovel and a ATV or a tractor.
The latter is for hauling equipment and material back and fourth.
One thing, I should mention is the two different types of clearing the trees.
First is a clear cut; where everything is cut and removed. The second is
selective cut; where a limited number of trees are removed from a given area.
Myself chose to selective cut my trees. I didn't want to clear everything, just
create openings in the canopy.
As you start cutting and taking out trees, you will notice a growing brush
pile. This is not necessarily a bad thing as brush piles can be a benefit to
wildlife, especially in the winter when food is scarce. Deer and rabbits will eat
the buds and the bark off the cut limbs. It is a good idea however to limit the
number of piles and place them in key locations. If you would rather not have
brush piles, there is a couple of ways to remove them. One way is to just burn
them. If this is for you, just remember not leave a fire unattended. The other
way is removing the brush to another location and run the brush through a
chipper. This in turn can be use in landscaping around the house as mulch. This
is by far the most time consuming aspect of the whole project. When you have
finished with the area you cleared it is time to move on to the next
step. Working the ground
There are a number of ways to work up the ground. The most common is to use a
tractor, plow and a disc. For those that do not own or have access to a tractor,
a ATV can be used as a substitute. The number of farming tools for a ATV is
growing and becoming more affordable. Another method is to use a roto-tiller and
some hand tools. This is the method that I used. It does take a little longer to
work the ground than the other two methods.
Before you start working the ground. Invest in a herbicide such as Roundup.
This will kill the weeds and will stop the weeds from taking over your food plot
or tree seedlings. You may have to spray the area twice. Read the label of the
herbicide you decide to use and follow the directions. A good rule is to spray
with your back to the wind and never spray herbicides walking into the area you
are spraying. It is best to walk backwards when spraying and wear protective
clothing.
Now you are ready to work the ground. Now you can use the equipment to work
the ground. When you work the ground, work it at least twice. Work it in one
direction and then cross it. You want the criss-cross effect to break up the soil
and aerate the soil. If you are not satisfied with the results of the of the
first two passes go over it again. In most cases working the ground twice is
sufficient, unless you have a heavy clay content like I do and you may have to go
over it again to get the desired results. To finish up, just rake the ground to
level it out. You can use a drag or a garden rake to do this. Dragging or raking
will break up most of the bigger clumps of soil that happens from discing or
tilling. Now you are ready to plant and fertilize. Planting and
fertilizing
Before you start to plant, take a soil sample to determine the ph level. Most
seed companies have charts or other information on the desired ph level for their
products. You can pick up ph level tester at most garden centers or farm store.
After you determine the ph level follow the directions that came with your seeds
or trees. You may have to add lime to the soil or you may have to add something
else. It will depend on your ph level. I know most seed companies' request that
you do fertilize using a 13-13-13 mix or other variant; it depends on who your
supplier is. One thing that I have been told by farmers and a few others is to
use lime. This will sweeten the soil, so I have been told. I have tried it out
and I am waiting to see if it does make the plants more appealing.
After you test your soil and fertilize you can start planting. For small food
plots and for tree seeds it may be best to broadcast the seeds by hand. For
larger areas, a broadcast spreader may be used. These come in various shapes and
sizes. They range from the small hand held models up to mechanically operated
models that are used on the back of tractors and ATVs. There is another spreader
on the market and that is a drop spreader. A drop spreader is becoming hard to
find these days as the broadcast spreader becomes more popular. Whatever method
you decide to use, follow the instructions supplied with the seeds or seedlings.
Most seed types just require to be covered by a ¼ to ½ inch of soil. All the
information is usually supplied with your order and if it is not contact your
supplier. You should see growth in about 3 to 4 weeks. Be patient.
You should try to plant just before a rain. This way you will not have worry
about watering the seedbeds or trees. If you have access to water and can get it
back to where your seedbeds and trees are water them. If you cannot, wait for the
rains to come. The wait
This is a waiting game just to see if all your hard work will pay off. Just be
patient. Check your plots or trees at given intervals throughout the growing
season. You may not see results for a while. The wildlife will eventually find
your plots and your trees; so don't worry too much about it. Everything takes
time and you will notice the tracks or if you are lucky may even see wildlife
utilizing your plots.
I know this is hard work and a small investment in your property, but it is
worth it. It will pay off for you in the long run and who knows you may attract
different game species that you didn't know about on your property. Good luck and
good hunting.
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